![]() ![]() The cows stay at the alps for about 100 days. These high-elevation summer stables are called “alps.” Within a short hike from Gimmelwald are Wengernalp, Grütschalp, and Schiltalp. When the cows arrive at their summer home, the bells are hung under the eaves. The cows probably hate these big bells, which can cost upwards of $1,000 apiece-a big investment for a proud-yet-humble farmer. With the arrival of summer (usually mid-June), the farmer straps elaborate ceremonial bells on his cows and takes them up to a hut at high elevations. The cows’ grazing ground can range in elevation by as much as 5,000 feet throughout the year. And around here, rather than lose their children to the cities, Swiss farmers have the opposite problem: Kids argue over who gets to take over the family herd. But these farmers have made a lifestyle choice to keep tradition alive and to live high in the mountains. They support their families on government subsidies. In a good year, farmers produce enough cheese to break even. Here in the Berner Oberland region, traditional Swiss cow farmers could make more money for much easier work in another profession. I’m always inspired by how the old-fashioned farm culture survives high in Switzerland’s most scenic corners. “For me, when the flowers come out again in the spring, it’s like meeting old friends.” “This is a good mix for the cow’s milk,” notes the schoolteacher of the farm kids, suddenly all but abandoning me for the flowers. With a local friend leading the way, the Alps become a lively world of tumbling cows, cut-glass peaks, and fragrant meadows trimmed by a pastel carpet of flowers: gold clover, milk kraut, daisies, and bell flowers. Helicopters fly them out, but it’s only meat for the dogs.” The meat must be drained of blood immediately or it’s wasted. One time at the high Alp above our village, 40 cows performed this stunt. If one wanders off a cliff in search of greener grass, the others follow. He says, “Alpine farmers expect to lose some of their cows in ‘hiking accidents.’ These days cows are double the weight of cows a hundred years ago.and no less stupid. Olle tells me that even cows become victims of the mountains, occasionally wandering off cliffs. We meet a massive cow loitering atop a fairytale ridge, and I can’t help but wonder where he keeps his camera. Walking high above Gimmelwald, my favorite Swiss village, with Olle, who teaches in the village school, I always feel like a wide-eyed student. ![]()
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